Everest 2007 Cybercast: Namaste one last time!

May 28th, 2007 by Firat

From a series of dispatches from the Alpine Ascents 2007 Everest Expedition team.

A big hello from sunny and green Namche Bazaar. It’s around noon and people are out and about with shorts and flip flops on! Summertime has certainly come to the Khumbu.

Most of the team is here in Namche today after arriving yesterday from Pheriche. Various routes to Namche were taken by the team. Todd went over the Cho La into the Gokyo valley and spent 2 nights en route to Namche. He should show up in the next couple of hours here. Ellie, Amy Bullard, Tony, John and myself all took the high route out of Pangboche and came here via Phortse and the Mong La. Vern, Amy Beaton, James, Jeanne and Werner all came via the normal track through Tengboche. Everyone has gathered here waiting for Lakpa Rita and the rest of the staff in order to have a large final party tonight at the Panorama Lodge. We’re all looking forward to a last night of dhal bhat, beer, chaang, tongba and off course music and dancing. It should be a hell of an ending. Unfortunately Firat and Bill had to high tail it out quickly and Jeanne left Namche this morning in order to catch her international flight home.

The past couple days everyone was been recapping the excitement of summit day and the difficulties of such a long and demanding expedition. It’s been a great time of enjoyment through reliving it all from afar. The monsoon crept close a week or two ago and blanketed Namche Bazaar with rain. We showed up with perfect timing as the weather has turned nice and Namche is spring like with greenery everywhere. It’s a spectacular time to be here spending our last couple of nights.

We had 21 members of our team on the summit on May 22nd. It’s quite a number. Everyone is extremely happy with the success this year. It’s been a special one. Every member of our team including our Sherpa came down from the summit healthly, safe and in good style. No need for rescues, help from outside or late night epics. That is the way it should be done. Unfortunately it doesn’t always happen that way.

The day after we returned to BC from the summit, Lakpa Rita and I went back up the mountain to bring down the body of Pemba Doma who died in a fall on Lhotse. She was an important part of the Khumbu community and especially Namche Bazaar where she was from. She was a competent climber and fellow sponsored athlete with Lakpa Rita for Sherpa Adventure Gear. She was the first Nepali woman to summit Everest and return safely. A fairly common small slip in bad snow conditions ended tragically. Hundreds of Namche locals had gone to Tengboche Monastery to wait for her body to arrive via helicopter from BC in order to take part in her cremation and accompanying ceremony. From all accounts it was a touching and important ceremony for all. The Namche community returned yesterday afternoon en masse. Pemba Doma was a wonderful woman.

We’re all thankful for our safety this season on the mountain as well as appreciative of the highs and lows of an expedition such as this. We will celebrate all of that tonight with our incredibly dedicated Sherpa staff. They are the heart of the expedition. Start the music!

We’ll be in touch in another year…

all the best,

Dave

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Everest 2007 Cybercast: May 25 Packing Up

May 25th, 2007 by Firat

From a series of dispatches from the Alpine Ascents 2007 Everest Expedition team.

Well this expedition has been busy right up to the end! Everyone is EXTREMELY happy as you can imagine. Yesterday after all members got down, we had a nice dinner with Champagne and wine in our tent and then went down for a small party with our fabulous Sherpas in their dining tent. We handed out tips to them for which they were very grateful and then proceeded to the glitter and dancing (including Nepali, Sherpa and Western) and drinking. Much fun was had by all and it was so nice to have time to enjoy getting to know all of them a little more.

Today Bill and Firat left for down valley and places beyond. Firat will be on a helicopter out of Pheriche tomorrow while Bill is heading for Lukla to catch a plane to Kathmandu to do some work for his foundation, Basic Health International, for about a week. He would also like to thank his foundation for all of their support on his Everest expedition. The rest of us were packing and getting ready to make the transition to home while quite a bit more activity was going on in the Khumbu Icefall. Our Sherpas were up at 5am to haul the last loads down from Camp One and were on their way down when a part of the upper Icefall collapsed below them. Dave and Lakpa were on their way up to retrieve Pemba Doma’s body which was on it’s way down from the Lhotse Face. Dave and Lakpa waited for a long time before a new way was found through the collapse and our loaded Sherpas were able to get through. A great effort was made today to get the last loads safely down and it feels like a huge weight is lifted now with everyone safely down and nobody to go back up tomorrow. Dave and Lakpa made an incredible rescue of Pemba Doma today that included the entire Icefall and involving many lowerings, raisings, and 2 tyrolean traverses. They were assisted by some IMG Sherpas and team mates of Pemba as well as a few of the Icefall Doctors and others as they got lower. A helicopter took her body out after it was prepared for cremation at the heli pad. This makes two rescues in two days for Lakpa and it has been a very intense last 5 days for him! Lakpa Rita has got to be the strongest and strongest willed of anybody on this mountain and we are so honored to have him on our team!

Tomorrow morning we finish packing and head down to Pheriche and possibly a possee to Gokyo via the Cho La Pass. Our Sherpas will catch us up in Namche.
We are looking forward to warm temps, tee shirts and grass again!

Tashi Delek from our last night in Basecamp!
Amy

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Everest 2007 Cybercast: May 24 - Back to Base Camp

May 24th, 2007 by Firat

From a series of dispatches from the Alpine Ascents 2007 Everest Expedition team.

It’s PARTY TIME! Climbers, sherpas, base camp folks, we’re all in Base Camp tonight and it’s time to celebrate. There were whoops, cheers, and even a few tears when everyone walked in to Base Camp this afternoon after an all day trip down through the Western Cwm and the Khumbu Icefall. But everyone is extremely proud of a job well done. So how did people feel???

From Sticky: “This was my third attempt, and I DID IT!!!!!!!
From Todd Macy: “I’m just ecstatic to have summated Everest on my first attempt. I think it was really unique. I’m happy, in good health, and just really happy to have spent a few minutes on the top of the world.”
From Bill: “I may not be fast, but at least I’m slow.”

Maybe I can catch up with a few more people later for more quotes, but right now they’re all dancing and downing cold beer. Unfortunately all the sherpas are getting up at about 5:00am tomorrow to bring down the last loads from Camp 1. The good news is that today they brought down a ton of stuff from Camp 2 to Camp 1, so they only have to go to Camp 1 instead of all the way to Camp 2. That will be the last time through the icefall, which will be a big relief for everyone.

Tomorrow Bill and Firat are starting their journey back to Kathmandu. Everyone else is taking a rest day tomorrow and starting down the next day. So there will probably be more singing and dancing here at Base Camp tomorrow night, and maybe a little more when we are all together again in Namche.

So goodnight for now, I’m off to join the party.

Ellie at Base Camp

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Everest 2007 Cybercast: May 23 - Down to Camp 2

May 23rd, 2007 by Firat

From a series of dispatches from the Alpine Ascents 2007 Everest Expedition team.

Hello there friends, family, and loved ones. This is one happy team. We have descended the mountain after a very successful summit day. We’re happy to be where the oxygen is a little bit thicker and the food is a little bit better. Looking around the dinner table tonight we have a lot of satisfaction on our faces. So we want to thank you very much for your prayers and your best wishes, they all seem to have come true. We have come down the Lhotse Face and only have one more little challenge, and that’s to descend the deadly Khumbu Icefall.

Todd would like to report that his camera fell down the Lhotse Face today, so he will not have his pictures to share (seems like his team mates could send him some). Sticky found a crevasse today. Fortunately John was on hand to pull her out after Firat belayed her, so she is still with our team. We’d also like to mention that the wonderful support from our sherpas made this all possible, without them we could not have climbed this mountain.

We’re all looking forward to getting home as soon as possible and seeing our loved ones, so please keep your fingers crossed for good weather in Lukla so we can fly out. One more person who really needs to be mentioned is our wonderful Camp 2 cook, Ang Tsering, the finest cook in the Western Cwm. Bill, the persistent one, made it to the summit by being slow and steady. We’d really like to give him a round of appreciation in the fact that he has been going from tent to tent making medical tent calls and keeping everybody healthy. Everybody is in good health, and we’re very happy that the good Lord has smiled upon us and blessed us with good weather, good sherpas, and good teamwork.

Thanks for all your support, and stay tuned for the further adventures of the ascent of Everest.
Vern Tejas at Camp 2

P.S. Once again apologies for the satellite/website not being available, so this is late being posted.

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Everest 2007 Cybercast: May 23 11:15pm

May 23rd, 2007 by Firat

From a series of dispatches from the Alpine Ascents 2007 Everest Expedition team.

We just received a call from Dave and the group is safely resting at Camp 2. We expect to hear more from them tomorrow when they return to Base Camp. Thank you for watching. More to follow. Kristine

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Everest 2007 Cybercast: May 22 5:00pm Everyone Is Down!

May 22nd, 2007 by Firat

From a series of dispatches from the Alpine Ascents 2007 Everest Expedition team.

Ok campers, here it is: the final cybercast for summit day and the official announcement that everyone is safely back at the South Col. Vern, Bill, and Pa-Rita rolled in a few minutes ago, and now they are going to roll into their sleeping bags for some well-earned sleep. The same applies here at Base Camp where we are going to shut down the communications and go get some shut-eye ourselves. And once again a huge congratulations to the entire Alpine Ascents team for a job well done. Today we put 21 people on the summit, and everyone is now safely back to Camp 4. Sounds like a job to be proud of, and we’ll be even prouder when everyone is safe back at Base Camp.

Good night for now,
Ellie at Base Camp

And once again the satellite (actually the server) isn’t available; sorry for the delay.

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Everest 2007 Cybercast: Alpine Ascents Summit List

May 22nd, 2007 by Firat

From a series of dispatches from the Alpine Ascents 2007 Everest Expedition team.

To: Ministry of Culture, Tourism, and Civil Aviation
Kathmandu, Nepal

From: Alpine Ascents International 2007 Everest Expedtion 1st and 2nd
Everest Base Camp

I am happy to inform you of the success of the Alpine Ascents International
2007 Mt. Everest Expediton. The following members and sherpas reached the summit of Mt. Everest on May 22, 2007. They are climbing under two climbing
permits:
Arriving At summit at 7:10 am:
1. David C. Morton Expedition Leader Seattle, Washington, USA
2. James F. Ogilvie Member Edinburgh, Scotland, UK
3. Jeanne Stawiecki Member Charlton, Massachusetts USA

Arriving at summit at 7:30 am:
4. Todd A. Macy Member San Francisco, California USA
5. Firat Eren Member Ankara, Turkey
6. John P. Griber Member Jackson, Wyoming USA

Arriving at summit at 8:08 am:
7. Amy J. Beeton Member London, England UK
8. Anthony C. King Member Wilmslow, Cheshire, England UK
9. Werner J. Berger Member Newmarket, Ontario, Canada

Arriving at summit at 11:36 am:
10. Vernon E. Tejas Leader, 1st Talkeetna, Alaska, USA
11. William Hanlon Member Cochrane, Alberta, Canada

Sherpas:
Times at Summit
Age
of Everest
1. Lakpa Rita Sherpa (40) Sirdar Namche - 7
8:08am
2. Kami Rita Sherpa (37) Assistant Sirdar Namche - 7
7:30am
3. Chewang Nima Sherpa (38) Climbing Sherpa Namche - 4
7:10am
4. Ningma Tsheri Sherpa (38) Climbing Sherpa Namche - 7
7:30am
5. Tshering Dorjee Sherpa (36)Climbing Sherpa Juving - 7
7:10am
6. Fur Kancha Sherpa Climbing Sherpa Namche - 7
8:08am
7. Mingma Dorjee Sherpa (37) Climbing Sherpa Waku - 1
7:30am
8. Nima Kancha Sherpa (29 Climbing Sherpa Namche - 5
8:08am
9. Gyalzen Sherpa (46) Climbing Sherpa Namche - 9
8:08am
10. Passang Rita Sherpa Climbing Sherpa Namche - 9
11:36am

Note: Chewang Nima Sherpa this year has 15 summits of Everest, which is very close to the record of Apa Sherpa. Lakpa Rita Sherpa is one of the few international guides who works all over the world, including North America, South America and Antarctica. He summited Everest for the 10th time. Kami Rita Sherpa went to the summit for the 11th time. Tshering Dorjee and Nimgma Tshering both went to the summit for the 9th time.

Sincerely,
Narayan Acharya, Liaison Officer
Mukti Dhungana, Liaison Officer

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Everest 2007 Cybercast: May 22 3:30 pm

May 22nd, 2007 by Firat

From a series of dispatches from the Alpine Ascents 2007 Everest Expedition team.

Well, I guess it’s about time to send an interim descent report. No, Vern, Bill, and Pa-Rita aren’t back to the South Col yet, but they are making their way steadily down. When they talked to the South Col at 3:30 they were at the Balcony. The weather continues to be reasonable – a little breezy but sunny. So we are expecting them to be down in the next couple of hours. I’m sure they will be plenty tired and ready to sleep when they get there.

Ellie at BC

(Once again there is no satellite – hope this goes out soon.)

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Everest 2007 Cybercast: May 22 11:35am - Vern, Bill, and Pa-Rita are At The Top!

May 22nd, 2007 by Firat

From a series of dispatches from the Alpine Ascents 2007 Everest Expedition team.

Ok, Ok, here’s the dispatch you’ve all been waiting for: Vern, Bill Hanlon, and Passang Rita are at the SUMMIT! Well done guys! And yes, this is well within our turn-around time. They have all afternoon to get back to the South Col. They’ll also be happy to know it’s all down hill from here. The weather is holding fine for them – there are the usual afternoon clouds coming up the valley, but they are well below the elevation of the summit. So that makes all clients who started out from the South Col made it to the summit. Now we will be following everyone until they are all safely down to the South Col. We think the first climbers are just now arriving back at the Col. I may be doing a little snoozing, but I’ll be sitting right here by the radio until I hear from them all, and I’ll be passing the news along to all of you.

Ellie at Base Camp

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Everest 2007 Cybercast: May 22 10:00am

May 22nd, 2007 by Firat

From a series of dispatches from the Alpine Ascents 2007 Everest Expedition team.

I think I’m getting our satellite connection back so I’ll send this through directly to the website. A big thanks to Kristine for bailing us out and passing the news on. I believe she has already posted our three groups of summitters. They have now all started heading down from the summit; we will be following them all the way back to the South Col. In the meantime Vern is still heading for the summit with Bill and Pa-Rita. The weather is continuing to be good and it sounds like they are doing well. I will send in another report when they reach the top.

Ellie at Base Camp

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